Thursday 27 May 2010

17 - 21 May Portland and Swanage

Following the international trad fest in Cornwall Pete and I hit Portland for some sport climbing. After a few chilly starts we enjoyed some excellent conditions. By the end of the week it was so hot we resorted to Deep Water Soloing, I was nearly as surprised as the sea kayakers!

Me (in the centre) dodging a kayak on the second half of 'The Big Easy' 6a+ at Cave Hole, Portland

We started the week climbing bolted routes at Blacknor and The Cuttings, memorable routes being Consomme 6a+, Read the Small Print 6b and Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth 6b.

Climbing the excellent Consomme 6a+ at The Cuttings, Portland

These were a lot of fun and good training but when we got back on the trad at Swanage the sea cliff adventure and excitement soon surpassed them. At Black Zawn I climbed Astrid HVS 5a which has a great abseil in, hanging belay and good climbing out of an atmospheric zawn. Later we climbed at Subluminal and after seconding Pete on Paralysis E2 5c I also led it - a lovely route with a technical crux. To finish off the week we had another hard day on bolts including red point ascents of The Accelerator 7a and Nameless 6c at Cheyne Wears before a brilliant day's deep water soloing at Cave Hole area where we soloed Temporary Lifestyle and The Big Easy which had some really good moves and was a very safe traverse above the sea. Since its only the start of the summer though the water is still cold enough to take your breath away!

On the crux moves of 'The Big Easy' before rounding the arete

All photos courtesy of 'Kafoozalem'!


No comments:

Post a Comment