Saddle Tor and Bonehill

Yesterday Mark and I did some bouldering and soloing on Dartmoor. Highlights on Bonehill were the 'Dark Side' (V1 5c) and 'Trench' (V1 5b) traverses. We also tried the classic Rippled Wall V4 6b but the tough pull at the start defeated both of us.

Mark attempting the start of Rippled Wall V4 6b at Bonehill Rocks

Later we nipped over to nearby Saddle Tor. Here I soloed the short E1 5b 'Mezzotinter' and we tried 'Bjorn Again' E2 6a but pulling on the tiny crystal slopers proved too much again. Finally we had a bash at 'Hidden Traverse' V4 an excellent sustained problem good for buiding stamina!

Mark hoped odd shoes would improve the tiny crystals holds on Bonehill!

Aerobic Wall

On Friday Ellen and I visited Hound Tor on Dartmoor, we warmed up on a few boulder problems before I set up a top rope (controversial!) on Aerobic Wall, a short but very sharp E2 5c. After a couple of goes on the top rope I set out to lead it but whilst there didn't seem a particularly hard move on it, the route was very steep and 'pumpy' and making it to the top before my arms and fingers gave up was quite problematic! Eventually I led it on pre-placed gear but to improve on this style will take some doing, either a leap in stamina to place gear on lead or some serious bravery/stupidity to solo it ;)

Chudleigh 26th May

On Tuesday the sun was still shining down south so Ellen and I had a days climbing at Chudleigh in Devon. The crag gets some bad press due to polish and the odd bit of vegetation but there are some fantastic technical routes there which are well worth a visit. We climbed Great Western, a VS 5a but it could well deserve HVS. The first pitch encompasses some balancy slab climbing as well as a more strenuous traverse. Then the crux 2nd pitch requires a tricky mantleshelf/rockover move to be performed in some steep teritory. Sadly the last pitch is a little loose and a bit of a jungle. It might have been better, although less ecologically sensitive, to abseil off the tree belay after the crux.

The crux pitch of Great Western VS 5a at Chudleigh

Wye Valley 24th May

I spent the Bank Holiday weekend in the beautiful city of Bath once again. On Saturday though I managed to snatch a day's climbing in the nearby Wye Valley. Ellen and I headed to Shorn Cliff with its high quality pocketed limestone routes. There is a great selection of classic lines around HVS and E1. We'd done a couple of HVS's and the day was going well when suddenly a climber on the route next to me took a bad fall and hit a ledge on his way down. Sadly the rest of the day was spent assisting with his rescue. A stark reminder to not fall on slabs or least dodge the ledges on the way down!

Plastic Pulling

Climbing is always at the mercy of the weather and this week's has been particularly unforgiving so I've been doing a lot of indoor training as a result. To avoid the showers during the week I spent a couple of evenings with Pete at the Barn Climbing Centre near Launceston. Whilst it appears very DIY the route setting at the Barn is awesome and as well as a vicious pump you're sure to find some thought provoking climbing as well.

This weekend I set out on the long journey to Snowdonia but the appalling weather forecast brought us up short in Bath and so I've spent a very civilised couple of days catching up with friends and enjoying some night life for a change! On Saturday we did nip over to The Climbing Academy in Bristol. This was the first time I'd visited the South West's newest and most eagerly awaited indoor centre and I was not to be disappointed. The bouldering circuits were varied and covered a broad range of difficulty with plenty of problems at every level to keep you entertained until your arms and fingers could bear no more! Furthermore, the cafe and facilities were excellent and there was a friendly, helpful atmosphere throughout both the clientele and staff. A big thumbs up and I hope to pay another visit soon.

Hangover

Getting established on the overhanging flakes of Hangover E1.

Nooo, no big night out yesterday but a cracking route at Haytor on Dartmoor. Despite the sunshine down south today the brisk wind across the tor was chilling and fingers and toes soon turned numb. Excellent moves on steep granite made up for this though and surprisingly the route felt easier than it looked, possibly nearer HVS than the E1 given in the guidebook.

Steep finishing moves on Hangover.
Photos Kafoozalem.

Col du Tour Noir

As as our last day in Chamonix dawned so too did more glorious sunshine. Sadly we were not all feeling so energetic, after a weeks skiing a few aches and pains were setting in so Jaime and Si decided to hit Les Gaillands for some sport climbing. Meanwhile Ant, Ollie and myself made an early start and joined the weekend queues at the Grand Montets telepherique, planning a day tour from the Argentiere basin.

Ollie and Ant preparing to skin up the Glacier des Amethystes to the Col du Tour Noir

Our original intention had been to cross the Col du Passon and ski down the Glacier du Tour but scrutiny from the Grand Montets summit showed a plethora of wet snow avalanches from the gullies above this route. Therefore we opted for climbing to the Col du Tour Noir instead.
First of all we had to get down to the Glacier d'Argentiere. On the whole, this descent was a gentle traverse line down and across the Glacier de Rognons but it passed through some staggering and dangerous terrain whilst following a narrow, technical track between crevasses and seracs - really quite fun! :)

Glacier des Rognons descent. Ant and myself next to the big seracs on the right!

Ant and I starting the climb up the Glacier des Amethystes. Grand Montets ridge to the Aig. Verte provides a majestic backdrop. Photos by O Mentz.

After negotiating our way down through the crevasses the skin up the Glacier des Amethystes was a walk in the park although Ant on his big heavy resort ski's did start to feel the 'altitude' a little! Skiing back down from the col after our climb gave us more practice/pain on breakable crust snow although we started to get the hang of it by employing tiring jump turns. Ollie, having only skied for a week or two, struggled more with the snow but deserves congratulations for surviving at all! I did however manage to capture this shot of him looking very composed:

Ollie descending the Glacier des Amethystes with Y Couloir on the Aig. d'Argentiere behind

After completing most of the descent difficulties we stopped for a leisurely lunch break, although we did have to fight off a band of fearless Alpine Choughs who obviously thought our baguettes and sauscisson were fair payment for letting us ski through their glorious habitat.

Ollie and Ant at our lunch stop

Take off in front of the Aig. Verte

"Choughin' 'eck lad, eee's afta ar sarnies"

After lunch all that was left was another glorious run out along the Glacier d'Argentiere, watching the north face of the Droites, the Aig. Verte and the Aig. du Chardonnet all breeze past. We quickly dealt with a section of crevasses and then an exposed traverse above the Refuge de Lognan brought us suddenly back on the pistes above the Lognan telepherique station. A quick carving blast past the holiday makers and then it was skis off for the last time this season. A great day to finish on though!

Myself and Ant slightly in awe on the Glacier d'Argentiere dwarfed by 4000m peaks and enveloped in swirling ephemeral clouds. Photo O Mentz.

This was the last day of my ski touring trip to Chamonix and despite the initial poor weather it was a great week of contrast between joyful powder skiing fun and jaw dropping high mountain itineraries. Ski touring lets you travel quickly through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world and with some great fun descents as well it's got to be one of the best ways to enjoy the hills.

Valle Blanche Ski Traverse and Descent

Jaime overlooking the Mer de Glace. The Dru and Aig. Verte overlooking Jaime!

On Friday morning thanks to the wonders of pharmaceuticals I was raring to go and we all headed up the Aiguille du Midi telepherique to ski the world famous Valle Blanche. There are quite a few pics and a video in this post, I make no apologies for any loading times though, it was such an awesome day it has to be shared :)

To get our touring fix after a few days of lazy lift skiing we also decided to skin across the Geant Glacier to Helbronner on the Italian side of the range before skiing down under the Dent du Geant and following the right bank of the Valle Blanche descent to the Mer de Glace.

Ollie and Ant leaving the ice tunnel from the Aiguille du Midi

First of all we stumbled and slid our way out of the ice tunnel and down the infamous East ridge of the Midi. Whilst gazing over at the towering Mont Blanc du Tacul we popped on our ski's and then descended some steep cruddy snow before cruising over to the Col du Midi.

Looking over to Helbronner past Mont Blanc du Tacul. (Skier bottom right for scale)

Ant coming to a stop near the Col du Midi (Aig. du Midi in background)

From here we had to descend gentle slopes past Pointe Lachenal and the Gervasutti Couloir however we were soon faced with ski mountaineers nemesis: 'breakable crust' - imagine trying to ski on a giant Creme Brulee and you get some idea. The tough snow conditions delayed us a little but eventually we made it down and were putting on our climbing skins under the Aiguille du Diable and Pyramid du Tacul. With skins on we started the climb up to Helbronner past the Aiguille de Toule and Le Grand Flambeau.

Ollie and Jaime skinning past seracs, Les Capucins in the background

Fresh tracks descending from Helbronner

After a quick stop at Helbronner we started our descent and found perfect powder :)

Myself descending from Helbronner. Video L Friel.

Next we had to negotiate a steep pitch of powder and crust and I had to dodge a crevasse at the last minute (thanks guys...). This brought us above the Geant Seracs which we skied past and down onto the Mer de Glace for lunch in a magnificent spot on the moraine.

Myself skiing down past the Geant Seracs

Jaime celebrating at lunch on the Mer de Glace

Skiing down the Mer de Glace was remarkable; effortlessly gliding down miles of pristine glacier whilst rock and ice rose upwards for thousands of metres on either side of us was an unforgettable experience.

Myself, Ant, Lawrence, Jaime and Si on the Mer de Glace. Photo O Mentz.

Sadly it all had to end somewhere and at this time of the season it's impossible to ski all the way back to Chamonix so we rejoined the tourist hordes at Montenvers and caught the historic train down to the valley for tea and medals.