Point Five

Myself leading the first pitch on Point Five Gully

Yesterday Gwilym and I got a very early (4am) start and headed up the Ben to climb Point Five Gully V 5. The weather was supposed to be fine in the morning before deteriorating in the afternoon, sadly for us it seemed to deteriorate as soon as it got light! We persevered though and got to the bottom of the route just as the team ahead showered us with a dropped ice screw and just in time to lead up the first pitch and free their stuck ropes as well!
I led the first pitch and the third, known as the 'Rogue pitch'. The climbing was steep ice but not too hard, the real challenge was provided by the almost constant heavy stream of spindrift that we had to climb though and also blinded us for much of the route. After the first 3 technical pitches there remained a further 3 or 4 pitches of easier ground with the odd steep ice step before reaching the cornice.
We topped out gulping for air and breathing a big sigh of relief. Another Scottish classic ticked and definately earned.

Orion face of Ben Nevis and Point Five Gully (marked)

Climbers starting Hadrians Wall Direct V 5. They later retreated due to poor ice conditions

Packing up our gear by the summit shelter after climbing Point Five

Form an orderly queue please

Today we aimed to do Point Five Gully but after approaching the route we found teams on every pitch and another two at the bottom waiting to start! This wasn't even the weekend so I hate to think how many will be scrabbling up it tomorrow. So, and since it was our 4th day on the Ben this week, we decided to have an easier day and do Tower Scoop III, a nice ice climb with a few lines to pick and choose from to make it as hard or easy as you wish.
We were off the face quite early but it was still very hot today and there was lots of rock and ice falling into Observatory gully, be it from melting or climbers or both. Early starts and caution are probably a good choice right now.

Pitch one of Tower Scoop

Ben Nevis plateau and Carn Dearg

Smith's Route

Another glorious day on Ben Nevis and time to up the ante, we climbed Smith's Route V 5 on Gardyloo Buttress. This classic steep ice route was marvelously exposed and included an idylic ice cave belay with fantastic views of Tower Ridge and Indicator Wall. After topping out we nipped back down Number 4 gully and got a quick ascent of Central Gully Left Hand IV 4 on Creag Coire na Ciste. On the walk out we also came across a very tame herd of deer. All in all, the perfect Scottish winter day!

Smith's Route, the blue-ish icefall centre frame and a climber finishing the route topping out onto Ben Nevis

Andy leading the 'Icicle'

Climbers crossing Tower Gap

Bluebird Ben

Back up the Ben and what a difference a day makes: blue skies and beautiful views all the way to the sea and Skye. There was even a bit of neve around :)
We climbed Glovers Chimney III 4 which had a cracking steep ice pitch to start and a narrow verglassed chimney finishing at Tower Gap.
There were lots of teams out today on a whole host of routes in Coire na Ciste. Elsewhere, Point Five, Smiths, Tower Scoop and Tower Ridge were also popular choices.




More photos and reports at http://www.abacusmountaineering.com/currentconditions.html and http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/blog/blog.htm

Slush Puppy on Ben Nevis

After a wet and warm weekend I went up to the North Face of Ben Nevis today, where it was still wet and warm. Conditions were typically Scottish with a cloud base just above the CIC hut and rain at all but the very highest altitudes, consequently the camera stayed in my pack and there's no photos to liven up this post!
However, despite the gushing water under the ice and the stream of debris and small rocks on top of it, we and another party climbed the classic 'Green Gully IV 4'. Due to the thaw the route was in easy climbing conditions, not too steep and a little slushy. Protection though was scarce and axe placements certainly didn't inspire confidence!
There weren't many people on the hill today but Comb Gully did also see an ascent.

Paddling Loch Eil

Ironically for the first entry here there was not a rope or hold in sight today! The winter season has been interupted but yet another thaw so it was a good day to do some skills in an open boat and wrap up my 2 Star paddlesports training. It was fine and warm on Loch Eil where we paddled between Corpach and Fort William spotting lots of sea birds and seals on the way. Good fun on the water, but fingers crossed for another freeze soon and some classic ice routes on Ben Nevis :)