Sunday 23 August 2009

Climbing in August

...has been very limited, especially since I injured my foot last weekend and am resting up whilst some ligaments in my foot try to sort themselves out! I did start the month with a good weekend at the Roaches however and led 'Safety Net' E1 5b as well as some nice problems away from the crowds at the Skyline boulders. The only other memorable moment on rock recently was warming up on 'Omega Crack' at Sheeps Tor which must rate as one of hardest VD's anywhere!

Summer in Menorca, Eco Reserve or Package Hol hell?

Menorca is the small peaceful neighbour of Ibiza and Majorca home to gorgeous beaches, azure seas, and meditterean countryside aswell as delectable gin, ma(h)yonnaise and several intriguing contrasts.
Ellen and I took advantage of a villa there for a genuine summer holiday although incidently there is a spot of sport cimbing to be had as well...

Cala Pregonda

The island is a favourite destination of families from all over Europe but the package tour developments are well contained and Menorca's checkered history and strong individual character help retain its charm despite the influx of visitors. Furthermore ,for those in the know, a short walk is all it takes to find the more deserted and wild beaches.
Away from the handful of crowded resorts on the south coast the island's interior is still dominated by small scale agriculture where grand, old, whitewashed Finca's perch on rolling red hills. Estates are divided up by lush pine forests and deep, rocky gorges both home to a wide array of plant and animal species some of which are unique to the island.
Menorca bursts with evidence of human endevour and conflict from prehistoric man, to Moorish conquest in 903AD and Anglo-French battles for European supremacy throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.

'Princesses Tower' originally built by the English to warn of French invasion and later incorporated into the Spanish Fortress at 'La Mola'

Todays battle though is for the preservation of its historical culture and natural environment from those of us who flock to enjoy it. In 1993 Menorca was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve to recognise and protect it's uniquely preserved natural environment and agricultral landscapes. In the light of ineviatably rising visitor numbers this must have been a very welcome measure. Recently though this status seems to have become more of a marketing tool and another feather in the cap of islands tourist board, attracting even more visitors rather than acting as a shield against them. In particular, many 'eco-tourists', walkers and animal lovers now have unprecedented access to the island's treasures thanks to the opening of a wide networks of footpaths (Cami de Cavalls) which penetrate some of the more remote areas of the coast. Of course such conflicts and environmental management challenges are repeated all over the world. It will be interesting to see whether this wider access to and appreciation of Menorca's natural beauty will inspire the respect of visitors and responsibility in policy makers to protect it or lead to further incursions and degradation for the sake of tourism incomes.

June 24th - Lower Sharpnose

Back in June, before a break out the in Med, I visited Sharpnose on North Devon's Culm Coast with Pete. The climbs there scale the steep flanks of three narrow rocky fins that jut out into the Atlantic.

Arriving at the rugged Culm Coast with Pete



Lower Sharpnose fins

On the approach to the cliffs you are struck by the fascinating geological spectacle and stunning sea views but once at the bottom I realised how steep they are and the thought of climbing them was a different drama altogether. Pete led an E1 and an E2 whilst I was content to second on my first visit to the crag.

Me seconding 'Out Of The Blue' E2 5b

Central fin with the ragged diagonal crack of 'The Smile' E1 5a

It was a gorgeous day to be at the coast and as the advancing tide covered the bottom of the climbs we rounded off the day with a swim between the magnificent fins.