Deep Water Soloing

On monday Pete and I grabbed a day out in Torquay and took advantage of the warm (ish) temperatures to do some more deep water soloing. We did Watchtower Traverse (part 1) which is a great adventure around the bay exploring nooks and crannies in the coast and a number of shorter routes on walls and aretes under the spectacular 'London Bridge'.

Me soloing 'Duckless in Torbay' being overlooked by London Bridge and a confused scuba diver

Although not quite as friendly as Cave Hole at Portland this area was still a very good introduction to DWS and has some easy accessible solo's with good climbing.

Pulling shapes on 'Something Ducky'

17 - 21 May Portland and Swanage

Following the international trad fest in Cornwall Pete and I hit Portland for some sport climbing. After a few chilly starts we enjoyed some excellent conditions. By the end of the week it was so hot we resorted to Deep Water Soloing, I was nearly as surprised as the sea kayakers!

Me (in the centre) dodging a kayak on the second half of 'The Big Easy' 6a+ at Cave Hole, Portland

We started the week climbing bolted routes at Blacknor and The Cuttings, memorable routes being Consomme 6a+, Read the Small Print 6b and Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth 6b.

Climbing the excellent Consomme 6a+ at The Cuttings, Portland

These were a lot of fun and good training but when we got back on the trad at Swanage the sea cliff adventure and excitement soon surpassed them. At Black Zawn I climbed Astrid HVS 5a which has a great abseil in, hanging belay and good climbing out of an atmospheric zawn. Later we climbed at Subluminal and after seconding Pete on Paralysis E2 5c I also led it - a lovely route with a technical crux. To finish off the week we had another hard day on bolts including red point ascents of The Accelerator 7a and Nameless 6c at Cheyne Wears before a brilliant day's deep water soloing at Cave Hole area where we soloed Temporary Lifestyle and The Big Easy which had some really good moves and was a very safe traverse above the sea. Since its only the start of the summer though the water is still cold enough to take your breath away!

On the crux moves of 'The Big Easy' before rounding the arete

All photos courtesy of 'Kafoozalem'!

New routing at the Lizard

During the recent BMC meet I was lucky enough to go climbing for the day with Pat Littlejohn OBE (South West climbing legend and Director of ISM), David Hope and Dr David Hillebrandt who have made great contributions to Cornish climbing over many years and have an incredibly intimate knowledge of the coast. Along with our international guests, Ekaterina and Vladimir from Kyrgystan we went to Predannack Head on the Lizard peninsula (the UK's most southerly point).

Coast near Predannack Head

Despite us all leaving the Count House at the same time Dave Hope and I arrived much earlier than the others. This was soon explained however as Vladimir and Ekaterina alighted from Pat's car brandishing mouthwatering Cornish pasties picked up on a detour to Marazion. We got our packs together and headed down to the cliffs, Dave and I almost as envious of the pasties as a golden retriever who also wanted a bit of the action before their owner called them off!
Dave Hillebrandt had previously put in a lot of reconnaissance in the area and led us to some unclimbed buttress where a brace of new routes were ripe for the picking. I climbed a short, sharp and steep corner crack which led to an hanging rib and pinnacle belay with fine sea views. It went at about VS 4c (I think... anyone care to come and repeat it?) and I christened it 'Chopper' partly after the team of helicopters from nearby RNAS Culdrose which seemed to be roaring overhead all day.

'Chopper' VS 4c FA. Adam Thomas & Ekaterina Andreyeva 13th May 2010 marked in red, other possible lines in green.

Pat led two new E1's and we finished a perfect day's Cornish climbing with a pint of Tribute overlooking the picturesque fishing harbour in Mousehole.

Pat and Ekaterina in Mousehole near Penzance

9 - 15th May BMC International Meet

I've recently returned from a brilliant week climbing with new partners from around the world and meeting a few inspirational figures in the process. Once a year the British Mounatineering Council invites climbers from around the world to come and sample the unique delights of British 'trad' and winter climbing.

Toru Nakajima making a very bold ascent of '29 Palms' E8 6c at Sennen

This year the meet was held at the Count House near St Just in Cornwall. The Count House is owned by the Climbers Club who co-hosted the meet and did a brilliant job accomodating and feeding 65 busy climbers for a week!

Erik after his frist trad lead on 'Demo Route' HS at Sennen

I joined the meet as a 'host' and teamed up with different international guests to introduce them to the Cornish cliffs and the basics of trad climbing - whilst they were very able sport climbers many of the guests had never climbed on leader placed protection. Over the week I climbed with Erik (Belgium), Ekaterina (Kyrgyzstan) and Christos (Cyprus) who after getting over their intial fear of 'chimneys', 'nuts' and the idea of getting washed off a ledge by the Atlantic swell were soon cruising their way up classic Cornish routes from HS to E2. The full report on the BMC site can be found here.

Christos looking releived after escaping the overhanging chimney crack on 'Double Overhang' VS at Sennen

May 2010 - Out of office

I spent this winter being remarkably sensible. Picking up the threads of a former life I went to work at the Overseas Development Institute in London. I took up the role of Programme Officer in the Social Development programme whose research focuses on the interfaces of poverty reduction and child, youth and gender issues in the developing world.

The ODI is a fascinating place to work and allowed me to save some money but sure enough the desk, pc and phone routine wore thin and I am thrilled to now be back in my natural environment and heading off for the BMC international sea cliff climbing meet in West Cornwall!
The interlude is worth a mention here though since those of us born with security and opportunity in the developed world should always bear in mind how lucky we are to have the freedom and means to enjoy our natural world and also remember the responsibility we have to lead the way in protecting it.

Child labour and construction supporting the ever growing human population and demands on our planet