Wednesday 8 April 2009

Cuckoo Rock Bouldering

Today I snatched a sunny afternoons bouldering on Dartmoor. I visited Combeshead Tor / Cuckoo Rock for the first time and found top quality problems in a beautiful and tranquil setting.

Sharp Arete V2 5c. A little intimidating once I got near the top and remembered I had no spotters!

Combeshead Tor is a 20 minute walk from Norsworthy Bridge and although not much by Scottish standards, this approach assures you peace and solitude in which to enjoy the climbing. A good opportunity to be 'at one' with the rock and nature!

Gnarled tree near Cuckoo Rock. Hanging Flake boulder in the far distance.

The walk in takes you through venerable old woods, and farmsteads long abandoned to moss and bracken. One of the first boulders you come across is the Cracked Boulder with a striking horizontal fault. This can be traversed at V2 5c or the middle of the face climbed direct at V2 6a. Both requiring some fine moves and faith in crystals.

Cracked Boulder

A little further on, past Cuckoo Rock is Hanging Flake boulder, home to the classic 'Hanging Flakes' V4 6b but also some easier problems including the superb Flake Crack 4c and great aretes and cracks at around 5b/c.

Flake Crack on the south face of the Hanging Flake boulder

There are many more highlights to the area including 'Sharp Arete' as seen in the first photo and of course the local wildlife below! As usual though with Dartmoor granite, the skin on my fingers wore thin long before the daylight failed and I retreated with raw hands but high spirits.

Dartmoor Pony

A good guide to the bouldering at Cuckoo Rock and other venues in the area can be found at Dave Hendersons website www.javu.co.uk

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