Sun, Cider and Extreme Rock

A climbing trip to West Cornwall is a special occasion. Of course there are the sheltered sandy coves and clear turquoise seas but a little exploration soon yields the famous golden granite cliffs braced against violent Atlantic swells, always though within distance of a cosy pub or decadent cream tea. On top of the unique surroundings however is the feeling that you've strayed off the beaten track (despite the holiday crowds) and maybe even stepped back in time a little. A time where things move that little bit slower. Sort of like the Caribbean with but cider instead of rum and the Wurzels rather than Bob Marley! Last weekend was no exception:

Me seconding the traverse pitch of Suicide Wall E1 5c at Bosigran

Stuck in traffic near Gurnards Head

An early start Saturday morning and fast roads delivered Pete and I to Carn Barra near Porthgwarra on the south coast. We timed our arrival perfectly and the sun had just about dried off the remains of high tide. A quick abseil got us to the base of the routes and we climbed Axis VS 5a, Dialectic E1 5b (one move wonder) and Fourteen Fathoms E2 5b (tricky but fairly soft for E2).

Me leading Dialectic E1 5b at Carn Barra

The routes here were really good but in the back of my head I was always thinking of something else, that was the classic Bishop's Rib E1 5b at nearby Chair Ladder. I've wanted to test myself against this route for months now, so later in the afternoon as the sun started to wane, we moved over to Chair Ladder and descended to the wave washed ledges underneath one of Cornwall's most famous climbs.

My nerves were kept under control by the need for speed and efficiency in order to complete the route before dark, well, they were until I started the bold delicate traverse of pitch 1 and a hold ripped off in my hand! Eventually I scurried across the poor holds and made it too a rest and good protection. Next came the crux, a couple of hard moves up to a roof and then a strenuous yet balancy pull over it. It was certainly the hardest sequence I've ever led and felt even less secure due to the salty humid air which kept my sweaty hands struggling for grip. A wave of adrenalin and downright fear swept me over the forearm pump and the final few run out moves and suddenly I was at the belay! Relieved and utterly speechless.

Me getting in some much needed gear before the roof on Bishop's Rib E1 5b, Chair Ladder

Walking back through the fishing hamlet of Porthgwarra after climbing at Chair Ladder

Saturday was completed by a few celebratory pints of local 'apple juice' and a live band in the First and Last Inn near Lands End.

The rest of the weekend was spent around Bosigran on the north coast. We climbed Suicide Wall E1 5c which was definitely no easy tick and felt stiff at the grade. There's some classic climbing on it but in serious situations and it felt harder than the grades suggested. I had to resort to resting whilst seconding the hard pitches and battling with Pete's 'well seated' gear. We also did some shorter routes on the west face of Bosigran Ridge ('Commando' Ridge). The highlight of which was Galipolli E1 5c a highly technical but well protected slab route.

After all the hard granite action I'll be giving my fingers a rest and tomorrow I depart for Chamonix to do some ski touring :) Better get my snow legs back again.

Spectacular abseil decent from Bosigran Ridge