Chudleigh Re-match

On Saturday Pete and I visited Chudleigh Rocks. I had a score to settle with 'Logic' E1 5b as I tried it last week but resorted to resting on the rope. This time though it went like a dream and was a great start to the day.

Myself leading 'Logic' E1 5b

Pete's lead next and he chose 'White Edge', another E1 5b although as normal for Chudleigh it was quite tricky and relied solely on a couple of old pegs for protection! After a steep pull over a bulge and an exposed step on a slab the belay was reached.

Pete at the belay on 'White Edge' E1 5b

I then led the second pitch which had some more dodgy peg protection and a short section of 5a/b before topping out in typical Chudleigh fashion:

Topping out White Edge at Chudleigh

To round the day off we also called at Saddle Tor on Dartmoor and I linked the very fine Hidden Traverse V4

Saddle Tor and Bonehill

Yesterday Mark and I did some bouldering and soloing on Dartmoor. Highlights on Bonehill were the 'Dark Side' (V1 5c) and 'Trench' (V1 5b) traverses. We also tried the classic Rippled Wall V4 6b but the tough pull at the start defeated both of us.

Mark attempting the start of Rippled Wall V4 6b at Bonehill Rocks

Later we nipped over to nearby Saddle Tor. Here I soloed the short E1 5b 'Mezzotinter' and we tried 'Bjorn Again' E2 6a but pulling on the tiny crystal slopers proved too much again. Finally we had a bash at 'Hidden Traverse' V4 an excellent sustained problem good for buiding stamina!

Mark hoped odd shoes would improve the tiny crystals holds on Bonehill!

Aerobic Wall

On Friday Ellen and I visited Hound Tor on Dartmoor, we warmed up on a few boulder problems before I set up a top rope (controversial!) on Aerobic Wall, a short but very sharp E2 5c. After a couple of goes on the top rope I set out to lead it but whilst there didn't seem a particularly hard move on it, the route was very steep and 'pumpy' and making it to the top before my arms and fingers gave up was quite problematic! Eventually I led it on pre-placed gear but to improve on this style will take some doing, either a leap in stamina to place gear on lead or some serious bravery/stupidity to solo it ;)

Chudleigh 26th May

On Tuesday the sun was still shining down south so Ellen and I had a days climbing at Chudleigh in Devon. The crag gets some bad press due to polish and the odd bit of vegetation but there are some fantastic technical routes there which are well worth a visit. We climbed Great Western, a VS 5a but it could well deserve HVS. The first pitch encompasses some balancy slab climbing as well as a more strenuous traverse. Then the crux 2nd pitch requires a tricky mantleshelf/rockover move to be performed in some steep teritory. Sadly the last pitch is a little loose and a bit of a jungle. It might have been better, although less ecologically sensitive, to abseil off the tree belay after the crux.

The crux pitch of Great Western VS 5a at Chudleigh

Wye Valley 24th May

I spent the Bank Holiday weekend in the beautiful city of Bath once again. On Saturday though I managed to snatch a day's climbing in the nearby Wye Valley. Ellen and I headed to Shorn Cliff with its high quality pocketed limestone routes. There is a great selection of classic lines around HVS and E1. We'd done a couple of HVS's and the day was going well when suddenly a climber on the route next to me took a bad fall and hit a ledge on his way down. Sadly the rest of the day was spent assisting with his rescue. A stark reminder to not fall on slabs or least dodge the ledges on the way down!

Plastic Pulling

Climbing is always at the mercy of the weather and this week's has been particularly unforgiving so I've been doing a lot of indoor training as a result. To avoid the showers during the week I spent a couple of evenings with Pete at the Barn Climbing Centre near Launceston. Whilst it appears very DIY the route setting at the Barn is awesome and as well as a vicious pump you're sure to find some thought provoking climbing as well.

This weekend I set out on the long journey to Snowdonia but the appalling weather forecast brought us up short in Bath and so I've spent a very civilised couple of days catching up with friends and enjoying some night life for a change! On Saturday we did nip over to The Climbing Academy in Bristol. This was the first time I'd visited the South West's newest and most eagerly awaited indoor centre and I was not to be disappointed. The bouldering circuits were varied and covered a broad range of difficulty with plenty of problems at every level to keep you entertained until your arms and fingers could bear no more! Furthermore, the cafe and facilities were excellent and there was a friendly, helpful atmosphere throughout both the clientele and staff. A big thumbs up and I hope to pay another visit soon.

Hangover

Getting established on the overhanging flakes of Hangover E1.

Nooo, no big night out yesterday but a cracking route at Haytor on Dartmoor. Despite the sunshine down south today the brisk wind across the tor was chilling and fingers and toes soon turned numb. Excellent moves on steep granite made up for this though and surprisingly the route felt easier than it looked, possibly nearer HVS than the E1 given in the guidebook.

Steep finishing moves on Hangover.
Photos Kafoozalem.