Deep Water Soloing

On monday Pete and I grabbed a day out in Torquay and took advantage of the warm (ish) temperatures to do some more deep water soloing. We did Watchtower Traverse (part 1) which is a great adventure around the bay exploring nooks and crannies in the coast and a number of shorter routes on walls and aretes under the spectacular 'London Bridge'.

Me soloing 'Duckless in Torbay' being overlooked by London Bridge and a confused scuba diver

Although not quite as friendly as Cave Hole at Portland this area was still a very good introduction to DWS and has some easy accessible solo's with good climbing.

Pulling shapes on 'Something Ducky'

17 - 21 May Portland and Swanage

Following the international trad fest in Cornwall Pete and I hit Portland for some sport climbing. After a few chilly starts we enjoyed some excellent conditions. By the end of the week it was so hot we resorted to Deep Water Soloing, I was nearly as surprised as the sea kayakers!

Me (in the centre) dodging a kayak on the second half of 'The Big Easy' 6a+ at Cave Hole, Portland

We started the week climbing bolted routes at Blacknor and The Cuttings, memorable routes being Consomme 6a+, Read the Small Print 6b and Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth 6b.

Climbing the excellent Consomme 6a+ at The Cuttings, Portland

These were a lot of fun and good training but when we got back on the trad at Swanage the sea cliff adventure and excitement soon surpassed them. At Black Zawn I climbed Astrid HVS 5a which has a great abseil in, hanging belay and good climbing out of an atmospheric zawn. Later we climbed at Subluminal and after seconding Pete on Paralysis E2 5c I also led it - a lovely route with a technical crux. To finish off the week we had another hard day on bolts including red point ascents of The Accelerator 7a and Nameless 6c at Cheyne Wears before a brilliant day's deep water soloing at Cave Hole area where we soloed Temporary Lifestyle and The Big Easy which had some really good moves and was a very safe traverse above the sea. Since its only the start of the summer though the water is still cold enough to take your breath away!

On the crux moves of 'The Big Easy' before rounding the arete

All photos courtesy of 'Kafoozalem'!

New routing at the Lizard

During the recent BMC meet I was lucky enough to go climbing for the day with Pat Littlejohn OBE (South West climbing legend and Director of ISM), David Hope and Dr David Hillebrandt who have made great contributions to Cornish climbing over many years and have an incredibly intimate knowledge of the coast. Along with our international guests, Ekaterina and Vladimir from Kyrgystan we went to Predannack Head on the Lizard peninsula (the UK's most southerly point).

Coast near Predannack Head

Despite us all leaving the Count House at the same time Dave Hope and I arrived much earlier than the others. This was soon explained however as Vladimir and Ekaterina alighted from Pat's car brandishing mouthwatering Cornish pasties picked up on a detour to Marazion. We got our packs together and headed down to the cliffs, Dave and I almost as envious of the pasties as a golden retriever who also wanted a bit of the action before their owner called them off!
Dave Hillebrandt had previously put in a lot of reconnaissance in the area and led us to some unclimbed buttress where a brace of new routes were ripe for the picking. I climbed a short, sharp and steep corner crack which led to an hanging rib and pinnacle belay with fine sea views. It went at about VS 4c (I think... anyone care to come and repeat it?) and I christened it 'Chopper' partly after the team of helicopters from nearby RNAS Culdrose which seemed to be roaring overhead all day.

'Chopper' VS 4c FA. Adam Thomas & Ekaterina Andreyeva 13th May 2010 marked in red, other possible lines in green.

Pat led two new E1's and we finished a perfect day's Cornish climbing with a pint of Tribute overlooking the picturesque fishing harbour in Mousehole.

Pat and Ekaterina in Mousehole near Penzance

9 - 15th May BMC International Meet

I've recently returned from a brilliant week climbing with new partners from around the world and meeting a few inspirational figures in the process. Once a year the British Mounatineering Council invites climbers from around the world to come and sample the unique delights of British 'trad' and winter climbing.

Toru Nakajima making a very bold ascent of '29 Palms' E8 6c at Sennen

This year the meet was held at the Count House near St Just in Cornwall. The Count House is owned by the Climbers Club who co-hosted the meet and did a brilliant job accomodating and feeding 65 busy climbers for a week!

Erik after his frist trad lead on 'Demo Route' HS at Sennen

I joined the meet as a 'host' and teamed up with different international guests to introduce them to the Cornish cliffs and the basics of trad climbing - whilst they were very able sport climbers many of the guests had never climbed on leader placed protection. Over the week I climbed with Erik (Belgium), Ekaterina (Kyrgyzstan) and Christos (Cyprus) who after getting over their intial fear of 'chimneys', 'nuts' and the idea of getting washed off a ledge by the Atlantic swell were soon cruising their way up classic Cornish routes from HS to E2. The full report on the BMC site can be found here.

Christos looking releived after escaping the overhanging chimney crack on 'Double Overhang' VS at Sennen

May 2010 - Out of office

I spent this winter being remarkably sensible. Picking up the threads of a former life I went to work at the Overseas Development Institute in London. I took up the role of Programme Officer in the Social Development programme whose research focuses on the interfaces of poverty reduction and child, youth and gender issues in the developing world.

The ODI is a fascinating place to work and allowed me to save some money but sure enough the desk, pc and phone routine wore thin and I am thrilled to now be back in my natural environment and heading off for the BMC international sea cliff climbing meet in West Cornwall!
The interlude is worth a mention here though since those of us born with security and opportunity in the developed world should always bear in mind how lucky we are to have the freedom and means to enjoy our natural world and also remember the responsibility we have to lead the way in protecting it.

Child labour and construction supporting the ever growing human population and demands on our planet

Climbers Club Aspirants Meet

The Climbers Club is more than 100 years old. It possesses an extensive network of huts throughout the country’s premier climbing venues and produces the majority of climbing guide books in the UK. Despite having over 1000 members however it is often perceived as being closed, restrictive and exclusive. Last weekend I attended their ‘Aspirants’ meet for prospective members in the Peak District to see what the deal was…

Bruce leading ‘Neb Buttress’ HVS 5a at Bamford

I arrived at the R O Downes memorial hut late on Friday night and joined in the inevitable game of car Tetris as 20 people tried to squeeze into a car park the size of a tennis court. Inside the busy, noisy hut I was immediately greeted and allocated an alpine style bunk. The next game was Spot the Aspirant! Members strode about with big smiles and booming voices whilst Aspirants seemed to melt into the background. Wearing nervous fixed smiles we gravitated to walls and benches like sheep keeping out of the sun but soon realised there were a good mix of people and everyone was very welcoming.

‘The Blurter’ HVS 5b at Stanage

During the weekend everyone had a lot of fun in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, no doubt assisted by the free food and drink on Saturday night! I climbed a host of routes with several different CC members, the best of which was probably The Blurter (above) at Stanage, a contrasting route including a thin slabby traverse to start, then more technical and steeper moves up a groove and series of roofs.

The club is definitely not elitist or exclusive, the application form and process is a bit long winded but all they want to check is that you’re a safe and enthusiastic climber who’s friendly and respectful to other members and the huts – the fundamentals we would all look for in any climbing partner. Over the course of the meet I bumped into a couple of ‘big names’ in climbing almost without realising since everyone was so down to earth and inclusive. Hopefully I’ll be a paid up [and hut key carrying :) ] member in the near future!

Welsh Road Trip and Squirrel Alert!

Seems like we’ve been granted an ‘Indian’ summer to make up for July and Augusts' showers. Ellen and I travelled to Wales and took advantage of some rare sunshine in its magnificent national parks but ambitious climbing plans quickly turned into a more chilled out road trip to the beach once I realised my foot still wasn’t up to the challenge!

Setting up camp at Whitesand Bay, St Davids, Pembroke

We started out with good intentions however in Snowdonia and went to Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass to climb ‘The Cracks’ HS 5a famous for its inclusion in the book ‘Classic Rock’ and also for its final pitch which provides a steep sting in the tail of an otherwise slabby and amenable route. Sadly after completing the route along with a VS variation on its second pitch I decided my foot needed more rest.

Ellen seconding ‘Lorraine’ VS 4c at Dinas Mot

Since climbing was off the cards we headed down to Pembroke instead and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and some tasty food, (as tasty as a super light gas stove and some plastic wine cups allow anyway!) camping on the beach at St. Davids.

Finally, I learnt an important lesson that you might benefit from! Unlike Alaska with its marauding bears or the Alps with its occasional fox, in the green and tranquil lands of Wales I thought it safe to leave some food in my tent. Unfortunately I hadn’t reckoned on the sly Snowdon squirrel which will stop at nothing in its quest for an afternoon snack, including the inner walls of your tent…