9 - 15th May BMC International Meet

I've recently returned from a brilliant week climbing with new partners from around the world and meeting a few inspirational figures in the process. Once a year the British Mounatineering Council invites climbers from around the world to come and sample the unique delights of British 'trad' and winter climbing.

Toru Nakajima making a very bold ascent of '29 Palms' E8 6c at Sennen

This year the meet was held at the Count House near St Just in Cornwall. The Count House is owned by the Climbers Club who co-hosted the meet and did a brilliant job accomodating and feeding 65 busy climbers for a week!

Erik after his frist trad lead on 'Demo Route' HS at Sennen

I joined the meet as a 'host' and teamed up with different international guests to introduce them to the Cornish cliffs and the basics of trad climbing - whilst they were very able sport climbers many of the guests had never climbed on leader placed protection. Over the week I climbed with Erik (Belgium), Ekaterina (Kyrgyzstan) and Christos (Cyprus) who after getting over their intial fear of 'chimneys', 'nuts' and the idea of getting washed off a ledge by the Atlantic swell were soon cruising their way up classic Cornish routes from HS to E2. The full report on the BMC site can be found here.

Christos looking releived after escaping the overhanging chimney crack on 'Double Overhang' VS at Sennen

May 2010 - Out of office

I spent this winter being remarkably sensible. Picking up the threads of a former life I went to work at the Overseas Development Institute in London. I took up the role of Programme Officer in the Social Development programme whose research focuses on the interfaces of poverty reduction and child, youth and gender issues in the developing world.

The ODI is a fascinating place to work and allowed me to save some money but sure enough the desk, pc and phone routine wore thin and I am thrilled to now be back in my natural environment and heading off for the BMC international sea cliff climbing meet in West Cornwall!
The interlude is worth a mention here though since those of us born with security and opportunity in the developed world should always bear in mind how lucky we are to have the freedom and means to enjoy our natural world and also remember the responsibility we have to lead the way in protecting it.

Child labour and construction supporting the ever growing human population and demands on our planet

Climbers Club Aspirants Meet

The Climbers Club is more than 100 years old. It possesses an extensive network of huts throughout the country’s premier climbing venues and produces the majority of climbing guide books in the UK. Despite having over 1000 members however it is often perceived as being closed, restrictive and exclusive. Last weekend I attended their ‘Aspirants’ meet for prospective members in the Peak District to see what the deal was…

Bruce leading ‘Neb Buttress’ HVS 5a at Bamford

I arrived at the R O Downes memorial hut late on Friday night and joined in the inevitable game of car Tetris as 20 people tried to squeeze into a car park the size of a tennis court. Inside the busy, noisy hut I was immediately greeted and allocated an alpine style bunk. The next game was Spot the Aspirant! Members strode about with big smiles and booming voices whilst Aspirants seemed to melt into the background. Wearing nervous fixed smiles we gravitated to walls and benches like sheep keeping out of the sun but soon realised there were a good mix of people and everyone was very welcoming.

‘The Blurter’ HVS 5b at Stanage

During the weekend everyone had a lot of fun in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, no doubt assisted by the free food and drink on Saturday night! I climbed a host of routes with several different CC members, the best of which was probably The Blurter (above) at Stanage, a contrasting route including a thin slabby traverse to start, then more technical and steeper moves up a groove and series of roofs.

The club is definitely not elitist or exclusive, the application form and process is a bit long winded but all they want to check is that you’re a safe and enthusiastic climber who’s friendly and respectful to other members and the huts – the fundamentals we would all look for in any climbing partner. Over the course of the meet I bumped into a couple of ‘big names’ in climbing almost without realising since everyone was so down to earth and inclusive. Hopefully I’ll be a paid up [and hut key carrying :) ] member in the near future!

Welsh Road Trip and Squirrel Alert!

Seems like we’ve been granted an ‘Indian’ summer to make up for July and Augusts' showers. Ellen and I travelled to Wales and took advantage of some rare sunshine in its magnificent national parks but ambitious climbing plans quickly turned into a more chilled out road trip to the beach once I realised my foot still wasn’t up to the challenge!

Setting up camp at Whitesand Bay, St Davids, Pembroke

We started out with good intentions however in Snowdonia and went to Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass to climb ‘The Cracks’ HS 5a famous for its inclusion in the book ‘Classic Rock’ and also for its final pitch which provides a steep sting in the tail of an otherwise slabby and amenable route. Sadly after completing the route along with a VS variation on its second pitch I decided my foot needed more rest.

Ellen seconding ‘Lorraine’ VS 4c at Dinas Mot

Since climbing was off the cards we headed down to Pembroke instead and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and some tasty food, (as tasty as a super light gas stove and some plastic wine cups allow anyway!) camping on the beach at St. Davids.

Finally, I learnt an important lesson that you might benefit from! Unlike Alaska with its marauding bears or the Alps with its occasional fox, in the green and tranquil lands of Wales I thought it safe to leave some food in my tent. Unfortunately I hadn’t reckoned on the sly Snowdon squirrel which will stop at nothing in its quest for an afternoon snack, including the inner walls of your tent…

Climbing in August

...has been very limited, especially since I injured my foot last weekend and am resting up whilst some ligaments in my foot try to sort themselves out! I did start the month with a good weekend at the Roaches however and led 'Safety Net' E1 5b as well as some nice problems away from the crowds at the Skyline boulders. The only other memorable moment on rock recently was warming up on 'Omega Crack' at Sheeps Tor which must rate as one of hardest VD's anywhere!

Summer in Menorca, Eco Reserve or Package Hol hell?

Menorca is the small peaceful neighbour of Ibiza and Majorca home to gorgeous beaches, azure seas, and meditterean countryside aswell as delectable gin, ma(h)yonnaise and several intriguing contrasts.

Ellen and I took advantage of a villa there for a genuine summer holiday although incidently there is a spot of sport cimbing to be had as well...

Cala Pregonda

The island is a favourite destination of families from all over Europe but the package tour developments are well contained and Menorca's checkered history and strong individual character help retain its charm despite the influx of visitors. Furthermore ,for those in the know, a short walk is all it takes to find the more deserted and wild beaches.
Away from the handful of crowded resorts on the south coast the island's interior is still dominated by small scale agriculture where grand, old, whitewashed Finca's perch on rolling red hills. Estates are divided up by lush pine forests and deep, rocky gorges both home to a wide array of plant and animal species some of which are unique to the island.
Menorca bursts with evidence of human endevour and conflict from prehistoric man, to Moorish conquest in 903AD and Anglo-French battles for European supremacy throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.

'Princesses Tower' originally built by the English to warn of French invasion and later incorporated into the Spanish Fortress at 'La Mola'

Todays battle though is for the preservation of its historical culture and natural environment from those of us who flock to enjoy it. In 1993 Menorca was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve to recognise and protect it's uniquely preserved natural environment and agricultral landscapes. In the light of ineviatably rising visitor numbers this must have been a very welcome measure. Recently though this status seems to have become more of a marketing tool and another feather in the cap of islands tourist board, attracting even more visitors rather than acting as a shield against them. In particular, many 'eco-tourists', walkers and animal lovers now have unprecedented access to the island's treasures thanks to the opening of a wide networks of footpaths (Cami de Cavalls) which penetrate some of the more remote areas of the coast. Of course such conflicts and environmental management challenges are repeated all over the world. It will be interesting to see whether this wider access to and appreciation of Menorca's natural beauty will inspire the respect of visitors and responsibility in policy makers to protect it or lead to further incursions and degradation for the sake of tourism incomes.

June 24th - Lower Sharpnose

Back in June, before a break out the in Med, I visited Sharpnose on North Devon's Culm Coast with Pete. The climbs there scale the steep flanks of three narrow rocky fins that jut out into the Atlantic.

Arriving at the rugged Culm Coast with Pete



Lower Sharpnose fins

On the approach to the cliffs you are struck by the fascinating geological spectacle and stunning sea views but once at the bottom I realised how steep they are and the thought of climbing them was a different drama altogether. Pete led an E1 and an E2 whilst I was content to second on my first visit to the crag.

Me seconding 'Out Of The Blue' E2 5b

Central fin with the ragged diagonal crack of 'The Smile' E1 5a

It was a gorgeous day to be at the coast and as the advancing tide covered the bottom of the climbs we rounded off the day with a swim between the magnificent fins.