Torbryan Twostep

A quick afternoon out to Torbryan near Totnes yielded a redpoint ascent of 'Boogie on Down' 6c+ whilst Pete led 'Famine' E2 5c after giving it a bit a clean. The crag is dominated by hard sport routes so getting a warm up can be tricky but the climbing is of superb quality flowstone and it's a great place for projects.

Cornwall calling

This weekend saw a quick hit on the Cornish granite again down around Lands End where I ticked off Gallipoli E1 5c and Visions of Johanna E1 5b at Bosigran. Hopefully I'll be returning next week for a few more days to help out with some route checking for the new guidebook and possibly a bit more new routing :)

Welsh Magic

For a climber, North Wales is a special place. The quality and variety of vertical challenges on offer is hard to match anywhere in the country and the atmospheric settings amongst the beautiful mountains of Snowdonia, the menacing slate quarries in Dinorwig and the wild, wave washed sea cliffs of Gogarth are just icing on the cake.

View of Snowdon and north side of Llanberis pass from the Dinorwig slate quarries

However, in recent years I've spent a lot more days led in a tent listening to giant rain drops fall on the Welsh cliffs than I have actually spent climbing on them. I was keen therefore to take advantage of the amazing dry weather we've been enjoying recently and the magical conditions inspired me to finally lead some classic hard (for me anyway) routes!

Me leading 'Karwendel Wall' HVS 5b on Clogwyn y Grochan

Pete and I climbed at lots of different venues in the area and my leads included; The Plum E1 5b at Tremadog, Superdirect E1 5b on Dinas Mot, Fools Gold E1 5c at Bus Stop Quarry and Sterling Silver E2 5c also at Bus Stop. These were all fantastic routes but the most memorable were The Plum for the number and variety of obstacles that had to be overcome all in about 20m and Superdirect for the sheer terror of a sketchy traverse on poor holds with only the vague rumour of a micro-wire somewhere beneath my feet. (For non-climbers this means: if I fell off all my weight would have been taken by a tiny piece of wire which would have most likely snapped and I would have kept falling, kept falling a long way).

Me leading 'Sterling Silver' E2 5c


Me leading 'Fools Gold' E1 5c

Pete was on good form too and led me up 'Quartz Icicle' E2 5b which is a 'proper' adventurous E2 on Wen Slab at Gogarth (same cliff as 'A Dream of White Horses') and was another highlight of the trip. The final novelty was the joy of fresh coffee, soft beds, comfy sofas and good company courtesy of the Climbers Club hut, Ynys Ettws, in Llanberis Pass - a lot better than camping and cheaper to boot!

Sunset outside Ynys Ettws

All photos courtesy of 'Kafoozalem' :)

Deep Water Soloing

On monday Pete and I grabbed a day out in Torquay and took advantage of the warm (ish) temperatures to do some more deep water soloing. We did Watchtower Traverse (part 1) which is a great adventure around the bay exploring nooks and crannies in the coast and a number of shorter routes on walls and aretes under the spectacular 'London Bridge'.

Me soloing 'Duckless in Torbay' being overlooked by London Bridge and a confused scuba diver

Although not quite as friendly as Cave Hole at Portland this area was still a very good introduction to DWS and has some easy accessible solo's with good climbing.

Pulling shapes on 'Something Ducky'

17 - 21 May Portland and Swanage

Following the international trad fest in Cornwall Pete and I hit Portland for some sport climbing. After a few chilly starts we enjoyed some excellent conditions. By the end of the week it was so hot we resorted to Deep Water Soloing, I was nearly as surprised as the sea kayakers!

Me (in the centre) dodging a kayak on the second half of 'The Big Easy' 6a+ at Cave Hole, Portland

We started the week climbing bolted routes at Blacknor and The Cuttings, memorable routes being Consomme 6a+, Read the Small Print 6b and Too Many Cooks Spoil the Broth 6b.

Climbing the excellent Consomme 6a+ at The Cuttings, Portland

These were a lot of fun and good training but when we got back on the trad at Swanage the sea cliff adventure and excitement soon surpassed them. At Black Zawn I climbed Astrid HVS 5a which has a great abseil in, hanging belay and good climbing out of an atmospheric zawn. Later we climbed at Subluminal and after seconding Pete on Paralysis E2 5c I also led it - a lovely route with a technical crux. To finish off the week we had another hard day on bolts including red point ascents of The Accelerator 7a and Nameless 6c at Cheyne Wears before a brilliant day's deep water soloing at Cave Hole area where we soloed Temporary Lifestyle and The Big Easy which had some really good moves and was a very safe traverse above the sea. Since its only the start of the summer though the water is still cold enough to take your breath away!

On the crux moves of 'The Big Easy' before rounding the arete

All photos courtesy of 'Kafoozalem'!

New routing at the Lizard

During the recent BMC meet I was lucky enough to go climbing for the day with Pat Littlejohn OBE (South West climbing legend and Director of ISM), David Hope and Dr David Hillebrandt who have made great contributions to Cornish climbing over many years and have an incredibly intimate knowledge of the coast. Along with our international guests, Ekaterina and Vladimir from Kyrgystan we went to Predannack Head on the Lizard peninsula (the UK's most southerly point).

Coast near Predannack Head

Despite us all leaving the Count House at the same time Dave Hope and I arrived much earlier than the others. This was soon explained however as Vladimir and Ekaterina alighted from Pat's car brandishing mouthwatering Cornish pasties picked up on a detour to Marazion. We got our packs together and headed down to the cliffs, Dave and I almost as envious of the pasties as a golden retriever who also wanted a bit of the action before their owner called them off!
Dave Hillebrandt had previously put in a lot of reconnaissance in the area and led us to some unclimbed buttress where a brace of new routes were ripe for the picking. I climbed a short, sharp and steep corner crack which led to an hanging rib and pinnacle belay with fine sea views. It went at about VS 4c (I think... anyone care to come and repeat it?) and I christened it 'Chopper' partly after the team of helicopters from nearby RNAS Culdrose which seemed to be roaring overhead all day.

'Chopper' VS 4c FA. Adam Thomas & Ekaterina Andreyeva 13th May 2010 marked in red, other possible lines in green.

Pat led two new E1's and we finished a perfect day's Cornish climbing with a pint of Tribute overlooking the picturesque fishing harbour in Mousehole.

Pat and Ekaterina in Mousehole near Penzance

9 - 15th May BMC International Meet

I've recently returned from a brilliant week climbing with new partners from around the world and meeting a few inspirational figures in the process. Once a year the British Mounatineering Council invites climbers from around the world to come and sample the unique delights of British 'trad' and winter climbing.

Toru Nakajima making a very bold ascent of '29 Palms' E8 6c at Sennen

This year the meet was held at the Count House near St Just in Cornwall. The Count House is owned by the Climbers Club who co-hosted the meet and did a brilliant job accomodating and feeding 65 busy climbers for a week!

Erik after his frist trad lead on 'Demo Route' HS at Sennen

I joined the meet as a 'host' and teamed up with different international guests to introduce them to the Cornish cliffs and the basics of trad climbing - whilst they were very able sport climbers many of the guests had never climbed on leader placed protection. Over the week I climbed with Erik (Belgium), Ekaterina (Kyrgyzstan) and Christos (Cyprus) who after getting over their intial fear of 'chimneys', 'nuts' and the idea of getting washed off a ledge by the Atlantic swell were soon cruising their way up classic Cornish routes from HS to E2. The full report on the BMC site can be found here.

Christos looking releived after escaping the overhanging chimney crack on 'Double Overhang' VS at Sennen

May 2010 - Out of office

I spent this winter being remarkably sensible. Picking up the threads of a former life I went to work at the Overseas Development Institute in London. I took up the role of Programme Officer in the Social Development programme whose research focuses on the interfaces of poverty reduction and child, youth and gender issues in the developing world.

The ODI is a fascinating place to work and allowed me to save some money but sure enough the desk, pc and phone routine wore thin and I am thrilled to now be back in my natural environment and heading off for the BMC international sea cliff climbing meet in West Cornwall!
The interlude is worth a mention here though since those of us born with security and opportunity in the developed world should always bear in mind how lucky we are to have the freedom and means to enjoy our natural world and also remember the responsibility we have to lead the way in protecting it.

Child labour and construction supporting the ever growing human population and demands on our planet

Climbers Club Aspirants Meet

The Climbers Club is more than 100 years old. It possesses an extensive network of huts throughout the country’s premier climbing venues and produces the majority of climbing guide books in the UK. Despite having over 1000 members however it is often perceived as being closed, restrictive and exclusive. Last weekend I attended their ‘Aspirants’ meet for prospective members in the Peak District to see what the deal was…

Bruce leading ‘Neb Buttress’ HVS 5a at Bamford

I arrived at the R O Downes memorial hut late on Friday night and joined in the inevitable game of car Tetris as 20 people tried to squeeze into a car park the size of a tennis court. Inside the busy, noisy hut I was immediately greeted and allocated an alpine style bunk. The next game was Spot the Aspirant! Members strode about with big smiles and booming voices whilst Aspirants seemed to melt into the background. Wearing nervous fixed smiles we gravitated to walls and benches like sheep keeping out of the sun but soon realised there were a good mix of people and everyone was very welcoming.

‘The Blurter’ HVS 5b at Stanage

During the weekend everyone had a lot of fun in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, no doubt assisted by the free food and drink on Saturday night! I climbed a host of routes with several different CC members, the best of which was probably The Blurter (above) at Stanage, a contrasting route including a thin slabby traverse to start, then more technical and steeper moves up a groove and series of roofs.

The club is definitely not elitist or exclusive, the application form and process is a bit long winded but all they want to check is that you’re a safe and enthusiastic climber who’s friendly and respectful to other members and the huts – the fundamentals we would all look for in any climbing partner. Over the course of the meet I bumped into a couple of ‘big names’ in climbing almost without realising since everyone was so down to earth and inclusive. Hopefully I’ll be a paid up [and hut key carrying :) ] member in the near future!

Welsh Road Trip and Squirrel Alert!

Seems like we’ve been granted an ‘Indian’ summer to make up for July and Augusts' showers. Ellen and I travelled to Wales and took advantage of some rare sunshine in its magnificent national parks but ambitious climbing plans quickly turned into a more chilled out road trip to the beach once I realised my foot still wasn’t up to the challenge!

Setting up camp at Whitesand Bay, St Davids, Pembroke

We started out with good intentions however in Snowdonia and went to Dinas Mot in the Llanberis Pass to climb ‘The Cracks’ HS 5a famous for its inclusion in the book ‘Classic Rock’ and also for its final pitch which provides a steep sting in the tail of an otherwise slabby and amenable route. Sadly after completing the route along with a VS variation on its second pitch I decided my foot needed more rest.

Ellen seconding ‘Lorraine’ VS 4c at Dinas Mot

Since climbing was off the cards we headed down to Pembroke instead and enjoyed a beautiful sunset and some tasty food, (as tasty as a super light gas stove and some plastic wine cups allow anyway!) camping on the beach at St. Davids.

Finally, I learnt an important lesson that you might benefit from! Unlike Alaska with its marauding bears or the Alps with its occasional fox, in the green and tranquil lands of Wales I thought it safe to leave some food in my tent. Unfortunately I hadn’t reckoned on the sly Snowdon squirrel which will stop at nothing in its quest for an afternoon snack, including the inner walls of your tent…

Climbing in August

...has been very limited, especially since I injured my foot last weekend and am resting up whilst some ligaments in my foot try to sort themselves out! I did start the month with a good weekend at the Roaches however and led 'Safety Net' E1 5b as well as some nice problems away from the crowds at the Skyline boulders. The only other memorable moment on rock recently was warming up on 'Omega Crack' at Sheeps Tor which must rate as one of hardest VD's anywhere!

Summer in Menorca, Eco Reserve or Package Hol hell?

Menorca is the small peaceful neighbour of Ibiza and Majorca home to gorgeous beaches, azure seas, and meditterean countryside aswell as delectable gin, ma(h)yonnaise and several intriguing contrasts.

Ellen and I took advantage of a villa there for a genuine summer holiday although incidently there is a spot of sport cimbing to be had as well...

Cala Pregonda

The island is a favourite destination of families from all over Europe but the package tour developments are well contained and Menorca's checkered history and strong individual character help retain its charm despite the influx of visitors. Furthermore ,for those in the know, a short walk is all it takes to find the more deserted and wild beaches.
Away from the handful of crowded resorts on the south coast the island's interior is still dominated by small scale agriculture where grand, old, whitewashed Finca's perch on rolling red hills. Estates are divided up by lush pine forests and deep, rocky gorges both home to a wide array of plant and animal species some of which are unique to the island.
Menorca bursts with evidence of human endevour and conflict from prehistoric man, to Moorish conquest in 903AD and Anglo-French battles for European supremacy throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.

'Princesses Tower' originally built by the English to warn of French invasion and later incorporated into the Spanish Fortress at 'La Mola'

Todays battle though is for the preservation of its historical culture and natural environment from those of us who flock to enjoy it. In 1993 Menorca was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve to recognise and protect it's uniquely preserved natural environment and agricultral landscapes. In the light of ineviatably rising visitor numbers this must have been a very welcome measure. Recently though this status seems to have become more of a marketing tool and another feather in the cap of islands tourist board, attracting even more visitors rather than acting as a shield against them. In particular, many 'eco-tourists', walkers and animal lovers now have unprecedented access to the island's treasures thanks to the opening of a wide networks of footpaths (Cami de Cavalls) which penetrate some of the more remote areas of the coast. Of course such conflicts and environmental management challenges are repeated all over the world. It will be interesting to see whether this wider access to and appreciation of Menorca's natural beauty will inspire the respect of visitors and responsibility in policy makers to protect it or lead to further incursions and degradation for the sake of tourism incomes.

June 24th - Lower Sharpnose

Back in June, before a break out the in Med, I visited Sharpnose on North Devon's Culm Coast with Pete. The climbs there scale the steep flanks of three narrow rocky fins that jut out into the Atlantic.

Arriving at the rugged Culm Coast with Pete



Lower Sharpnose fins

On the approach to the cliffs you are struck by the fascinating geological spectacle and stunning sea views but once at the bottom I realised how steep they are and the thought of climbing them was a different drama altogether. Pete led an E1 and an E2 whilst I was content to second on my first visit to the crag.

Me seconding 'Out Of The Blue' E2 5b

Central fin with the ragged diagonal crack of 'The Smile' E1 5a

It was a gorgeous day to be at the coast and as the advancing tide covered the bottom of the climbs we rounded off the day with a swim between the magnificent fins.

Chudleigh Re-match

On Saturday Pete and I visited Chudleigh Rocks. I had a score to settle with 'Logic' E1 5b as I tried it last week but resorted to resting on the rope. This time though it went like a dream and was a great start to the day.

Myself leading 'Logic' E1 5b

Pete's lead next and he chose 'White Edge', another E1 5b although as normal for Chudleigh it was quite tricky and relied solely on a couple of old pegs for protection! After a steep pull over a bulge and an exposed step on a slab the belay was reached.

Pete at the belay on 'White Edge' E1 5b

I then led the second pitch which had some more dodgy peg protection and a short section of 5a/b before topping out in typical Chudleigh fashion:

Topping out White Edge at Chudleigh

To round the day off we also called at Saddle Tor on Dartmoor and I linked the very fine Hidden Traverse V4

Saddle Tor and Bonehill

Yesterday Mark and I did some bouldering and soloing on Dartmoor. Highlights on Bonehill were the 'Dark Side' (V1 5c) and 'Trench' (V1 5b) traverses. We also tried the classic Rippled Wall V4 6b but the tough pull at the start defeated both of us.

Mark attempting the start of Rippled Wall V4 6b at Bonehill Rocks

Later we nipped over to nearby Saddle Tor. Here I soloed the short E1 5b 'Mezzotinter' and we tried 'Bjorn Again' E2 6a but pulling on the tiny crystal slopers proved too much again. Finally we had a bash at 'Hidden Traverse' V4 an excellent sustained problem good for buiding stamina!

Mark hoped odd shoes would improve the tiny crystals holds on Bonehill!

Aerobic Wall

On Friday Ellen and I visited Hound Tor on Dartmoor, we warmed up on a few boulder problems before I set up a top rope (controversial!) on Aerobic Wall, a short but very sharp E2 5c. After a couple of goes on the top rope I set out to lead it but whilst there didn't seem a particularly hard move on it, the route was very steep and 'pumpy' and making it to the top before my arms and fingers gave up was quite problematic! Eventually I led it on pre-placed gear but to improve on this style will take some doing, either a leap in stamina to place gear on lead or some serious bravery/stupidity to solo it ;)

Chudleigh 26th May

On Tuesday the sun was still shining down south so Ellen and I had a days climbing at Chudleigh in Devon. The crag gets some bad press due to polish and the odd bit of vegetation but there are some fantastic technical routes there which are well worth a visit. We climbed Great Western, a VS 5a but it could well deserve HVS. The first pitch encompasses some balancy slab climbing as well as a more strenuous traverse. Then the crux 2nd pitch requires a tricky mantleshelf/rockover move to be performed in some steep teritory. Sadly the last pitch is a little loose and a bit of a jungle. It might have been better, although less ecologically sensitive, to abseil off the tree belay after the crux.

The crux pitch of Great Western VS 5a at Chudleigh

Wye Valley 24th May

I spent the Bank Holiday weekend in the beautiful city of Bath once again. On Saturday though I managed to snatch a day's climbing in the nearby Wye Valley. Ellen and I headed to Shorn Cliff with its high quality pocketed limestone routes. There is a great selection of classic lines around HVS and E1. We'd done a couple of HVS's and the day was going well when suddenly a climber on the route next to me took a bad fall and hit a ledge on his way down. Sadly the rest of the day was spent assisting with his rescue. A stark reminder to not fall on slabs or least dodge the ledges on the way down!

Plastic Pulling

Climbing is always at the mercy of the weather and this week's has been particularly unforgiving so I've been doing a lot of indoor training as a result. To avoid the showers during the week I spent a couple of evenings with Pete at the Barn Climbing Centre near Launceston. Whilst it appears very DIY the route setting at the Barn is awesome and as well as a vicious pump you're sure to find some thought provoking climbing as well.

This weekend I set out on the long journey to Snowdonia but the appalling weather forecast brought us up short in Bath and so I've spent a very civilised couple of days catching up with friends and enjoying some night life for a change! On Saturday we did nip over to The Climbing Academy in Bristol. This was the first time I'd visited the South West's newest and most eagerly awaited indoor centre and I was not to be disappointed. The bouldering circuits were varied and covered a broad range of difficulty with plenty of problems at every level to keep you entertained until your arms and fingers could bear no more! Furthermore, the cafe and facilities were excellent and there was a friendly, helpful atmosphere throughout both the clientele and staff. A big thumbs up and I hope to pay another visit soon.

Hangover

Getting established on the overhanging flakes of Hangover E1.

Nooo, no big night out yesterday but a cracking route at Haytor on Dartmoor. Despite the sunshine down south today the brisk wind across the tor was chilling and fingers and toes soon turned numb. Excellent moves on steep granite made up for this though and surprisingly the route felt easier than it looked, possibly nearer HVS than the E1 given in the guidebook.

Steep finishing moves on Hangover.
Photos Kafoozalem.